Patek Philippe Nautilus "Sigma Dial"

About the Watch

The inaugural Nautilus, recognized as the ref. 3700/1A, boasted hours, minutes, and a date positioned at three o'clock. Affectionately dubbed the "Jumbo" for its expansive 40mm case diameter (42mm ear to ear), it originated from the creative mind of the late Gérald Genta. Notably, Genta sketched its design in just five minutes while dining in close proximity to Patek Philippe executives. In contrast to the conventional discreet luxury watches, exemplified by shiny objects peeking from shirt cuffs, both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak defied norms. Their large matte cases, featuring pronounced bezels with subtle shine on polished bevels, deviated from the traditional aesthetic. The Nautilus, drawing inspiration from hermetically sealed portholes on transatlantic ocean liners, showcased a rounded octagonal shape. This stood in contrast to the Royal Oak's eight-sided octagonal bezel, inspired by deep-sea dive helmets. The Ref. 3700/1A, unlike its renowned contemporary, employed a two-part case construction to minimize water entry risks, achieving a depth rating of 120m. Comprising a case middle/back and a bezel with two lateral protrusions or "ears," the watch was secured by concealed lateral screws at the "ears" at three and nine o'clock, with a bezel gasket in between. Despite its formidable size, the Jumbo maintained an elegant height of 7.5mm, courtesy of the ultra-thin calibre 28-255C (Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920). This movement, with a split stem for insertion and removal through the dial side, featured a Gyromax balance and provided a 38-hour power reserve. Notably, the integrated bracelet, characterized by H-links and rounded, rectangular center links, seamlessly merged with the case. This design choice, setting it apart from its predecessors with traditional lugs, maintained the overall design integrity. The model's production comprised two primary series: the ref. 3700/1 (1976-1982) with a slightly wider and straight 16mm bracelet, and the ref. 3700/11 (1982-1990) with a narrower and tapered 14mm bracelet. The dial of the Jumbo displayed a distinctive ribbed texture achieved through the meticulous hand carving of individual horizontal grooves. Throughout different references, dial variations emerged, with earlier examples featuring a small painted baton minute track, while later versions showcased a dotted outer minute track with "sigma SWISS sigma" printed at the dial's bottom.

About the Brand

When it comes to impeccable craftsmanship, pioneering designs and rich history of Genevan watchmaking inventions, there is none more qualified than that of Patek Philippe. The company began its legacy in the nineteenth century, founded by Antoine Norbert de Patek and Adrien Philippe and has a tradition of innovation that has been crowned by over one hundred patents. The brand is renowned for its hand-finished watches and skilled craftsman that ensure each and every timepiece is of the highest of standards.